IT'S WHEN TODD THRASHER, the mad genius behind some of Washington's best cocktails, begins blowing fire behind the bar that you realize that speakeasy-inspired PX isn't typical. And by "blowing fire," we don't mean one of his innovative cocktails — we mean he is literally spewing fire like a pissed-off dragon, while an appreciative dozen or so people look on.

Actually, the realization that PX is different comes upon you when you knock on the unmarked door in Old Town Alexandria, a grate opens, and a floating pair of eyes asks, "Can we help you?" Assuming you have reservations (or, if you're lucky, the blue light outside is on, meaning there's space in the 40-person bar) and are dressed properly, you're let in and climb the stairs. The bar itself is divided into three rooms: a lounge area, a bar with a small seating area, and the "blue room." The decor is almost entirely vintage, with art deco lighting fixtures and dark wood made non-oppressive by lots of mirrors. The drinks are old-school with a twist — think gibsons and champagne cocktails — and served in glassware you've probably only seen in Claudette Colbert movies.

While the setting may be formal, the service is friendly and laid-back. The space is so small the one server can keep an eye on you without being obtrusive; the bartenders chat with customers and, perhaps most surprisingly, customers talk to other customers. The whole vibe of the place is very hanging-out-in-Nick-and-Nora's living room; one half expects Clark Gable to come swanning in or Jean Harlow to be flirting in the corner. Drinks aren't cheap (expect to pay $9 to $16), but pack a high-end punch. There's no food, either, but little bar munchies.

Oh, and finding that unmarked door with the blue light? That's part of the hush-hush fun.

Photo by Preston Keres/The Washington Post

Posted by Kristen Page-Kirby at 1:51 PM on September 18, 2006
Tagged in Pick Your Poison