Eating Around: Hot Dogs' New Tricks

HOT DOGS HAVE DOMINATED D.C.'s humble street food selections since Ben's Chili Bowl opened its doors. This spring, with the opening of Adams Morgan's M'Dawg and the start of the baseball season, Washington's lust for hot dogs is on the rise.

Chefs such as Bebo's Roberto Donna are upping the ante by making artisanal dogs from heritage, grass-fed beef and pork, which means fresher hot dogs with more higher quality, flavorful meat. Formerly at Galileo Grill and currently at Bebo on the Monday, Wednesday and Friday lunch menu, Donna's $5 dog comes with sauerkraut, broccoli rabe or provolone.

Frank Ruta's high-end hot dog ($10) at Palena Cafe is so legendary that charcuterie expert Michael Ruhlman, author of "Making of a Chef" and "Charcuterie," cited him in a hot dog article in Gourmet last summer. As he recounted, Ruta came upon his rendition of the neo-dog by accident when he was making mortadella and stuffed leftovers into hog casings. The rest is wiener history.

Chef Nathan Anda of Tallula and EatBar has recently joined the game as well, yet his house-made dog is all-beef ($8). Heads up: His dog is so popular that it often sells out, so order early.

Haute dogs at area restaurants may not inspire the same loyalties as their mass-produced siblings that tout strong regional ties. But talk to local chowhounds and they'll tell you that these variations — stuffed in natural casings with fancy meat and house-made condiments — mean that D.C.'s dog style is tough to beat.

» Bebo Trattoria, 2250-B Crystal Drive, Crystal City; 703-412-5076. (Crystal City)
» Palena, 3529 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202-537-9250. (Cleveland Park)
» EatBar, 2761 Washington Blvd., Arlington; 703-778-9951. (Clarendon)

Photo courtesy EatBar