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ENZO ALGARME and Anastasiya Laufenberg weren't kidding when they said they know pizza.

The name of Ballston's new Pupatella Food Cart — "pupatella" is slang for doll in Naples — is a reference to Algarme's grandmother who inspired his love of cooking. Although they've only been open a week and are making do with a standard oven as opposed to the wood-burning one that's becoming the standard in the area's top pizza joints, Algarme and Laufenberg turning out an impressive thin-crust margherita pie. It's well-cooked, but not too brittle, and topped with basil, mozzarella and a glaze of sauce with a hint of sweetness.

The duo's range of offerings in addition to pizza is ambitious, as passers-by acknowledged in our recent visit when they read the specials board, which included fried calzones, stuffed rice balls, potato croquettes, ravioli and tiramisu and cannolis for dessert. Although the cart is only open from 8:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., Algarme and Laufenberg are hoping to extend hours to 8 p.m. by Oct. 15.

You can find the cart at N. Stuart Street and 9th Street N., near Ballston's Orange Line station.

TUNA TARTARE IS SO LAST YEAR: Inspired by Anthony Bourdain's Overrated Food menu, the writer behind the Apples & Bananas blog today asked The Post's Tom Sietsema in his weekly dining chat about which dishes he thinks are overrated. Sietsema's answer? Tuna tartare and molten chocolate cake.

A NEW LEAF: What is Michael Landrum's response to Tim Carman's article about him in last week's City Paper? The owner of Arlington's Ray's the Steaks and Silver Spring's Ray's the Classics has been uncharacteristically quiet in the aftermath. Is he gearing up for an epic letter to the editor or has he turned over a new leaf? If only City Paper had a comments option for its online articles; then we'd have our immediate gratification.

DON'T MISS: Chef John Wabeck's "sea scallops with sweet potato/duck hash and a red wine & five spice reduction," at New Heights in Woodley Park, one commenter suggests on the Don Rockwell food forum.
» New Heights, 2317 Calvert St. NW, 202-234-4110 (Woodley Park-Zoo)

TO DO:
» Capitol City Brewing Company's Oktoberfest. Saturday; noon-6 p.m. $25. 2700 S. Quincy St, Arlington.
» Del Ray's Art on the Avenue. Saturday; 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Mt. Vernon Avenue, Alexandria.

Posted by Michael Grass at 3:59 PM on October 3, 2007
Tagged in Alexandria , Arlington County , Ballston , Del Ray , Eating Around , Free Ride , News , The District , Top Stories , Virginia , Woodley Park