Popping at Cork: Cork Wine Bar

 U Street-Cardozo 

THAT SOUND ECHOES ALL EVENING at Cork, Logan Circle's new wine bistro worthy of celebratory bottle opening. It is also a refreshing change of pace to hear wine being uncorked the old-fashioned way amid the current crop of establishments that employ the latest in Enomatic decanting and gadget-enhanced services.

Co-owners Diane Gross and Khalid Pitts have taken great pains to ensure that the experience at Cork is entirely va de vi ("all about the wine").

Their addition to the scene is focused entirely on the on the old. Look for old world wines (from France, Italy and Spain) as well as old-school pours. Over the course of the process, they've come up with a true novelty for today's contemporary oenophile: tradition.

"We spent a lot of time in Paris a while back and fell in love with the wine bars," said Gross. "We wanted to bring that atmosphere back with us and make it a part of our neighborhood. We also want to demystify wine, especially wines from the countries that they originated."

Cork is a neighborhood bar where everybody knows your name, a romantic hideaway and a chic hotspot where meeting people is part of the exploration of wines. The bar is designed for conversation, with wine serving as the jumping off point.

"Walking into our bistro should be inviting," said Pitts. "You'll see people in three piece suits, people in jeans, and everone feels welcome."

It also offers a drinking tour of Europe at a modest price. For budding aficionados who want to get better acquainted with each region, Gross and Pitts offer instructional flights: trios of wines served atop sheets of paper with little biographies under each glass.

A chenin blanc flight ascends from notes of citrus and apple to a tangy astringency. The cab franc flight transitions from ripe and tannin-rich to round and grassy.

Chef Ron Tonaka, former sous chef of CityZen and Citronelle, brings a warm sensibility to the menu. Pan-crisped brioche sandwich of prosciutto and fontina, topped with a Path Valley egg is ideal for sharing. And the cheese and charcuterie selections are carved at a country kitchen-style wood cart.

The dining room feels like a converted factory space that has been softened with cottage-style furniture and amber lighting. Upstairs, you'll find a quiet loft, appointed with a handful of small tables and exposed brick walls. Around the back, the "chef's room" features an enormous bay window that overlooks the kitchen.

"We want to create a community here," said Gross. "We also want to bring old, classic service back." Look for wine tastings in the upcoming months, as well.

Also, a series of wine classes wil be offered to further educate Washingtonians in the varieties, the intricacies and the communities that are released with the pop of a cork.
Added Pitts, "It's that level of detail that makes everyone feel at home."

» Cork Wine Bar; 1720 14th St. NW; 202-265.2675. (U St.-Cardozo)

Written by Express contributor Christopher Correa
Photos courtesy Sarah Mattingly