When Tastes Get Expensive: Dining and Dollars

YOU DON’T HAVE TO WATCH THE NEWS to know that the state of the U.S. economy is less than cheery -- all you have to do is open a menu.

Those same price hikes consumers have been seeing at grocery stores and gas pumps are hitting restaurateurs square in the pocketbook, too.

"We're getting doubly hit," said Stefano Frigerio, executive chef at Mio. "With the price of oil so high, we're getting delivery surcharges on top of price hikes."

Chef Ann Cashion says she's seen a 10 to 15 percent increase in food costs associated with Johnny's Half Shell, while Peter Smith, owner and chef of PS7's, cites a 25 to 30 percent hike in his outlays in the last six months.

"Things just have to calm down soon," said Cashion. If they don't, chances are, customers will see more of a change in what they get on their plates.

One way for restaurants to slice costs is by choosing more humble meats. "Chefs are going to get a lot more creative with lesser cuts," said Smith.

Using organ meat, brisket, shoulder and other less desirable cuts isn't new. And neither is preventing waste in restaurant kitchens.

"We've always used every piece of everything," said Smith. "That's the reason behind our in-house charcuterie, for one thing. We're using every ounce of every cut we get."

Another way chefs are trimming back is by slimming down portion sizes. "If you can't finish it, it's too much," said Smith, whose entree prices fall in the $20 and $30 dollar range.

Diners may also find fewer exotic ingredients on restaurant menus. Lobster could be missing, as might micro-greens, which are notoriously finicky to grow and expensive for chefs. Truffle oil will sub for truffles.

And imports that had once been standard fare might soon be more difficult -- or expensive -- to come by.

"Wine importers are freaking out because people in the U.S. won't buy as much European wine because it's so expensive," said Cashion. "So, it's affecting them, too."

In these tight times, creativity in the kitchen appears to be the order of the day.

Written by Express contributor Melissa McCart