Trying out Four Makeup Counters: Mall Order

HAVING A COMPLETE STRANGER assail your face with pointy objects and brightly colored paint sounds like a scene from "Saw XX: The Makeover," which may explain why many women feel so intimidated when the cosmetic-trons at the mall offer to slap a few products on their mugs. But whether you're interested in spiffing up your look for an event or want to finally master the elusive "smoky eye," spending a little time in the chair might teach you to apply lipstick as well as Marilyn Monroe or put on eyeliner without looking like Marilyn Manson.

To help others combat makeup artist phobia, we sent Kirsten Ehrenspeck, 28, an Olney teacher, cosmetics novice and bride-to-be with a May wedding, to four Montgomery Mall cosmetics counters. At appointments, she asked for a natural look that photographed well and that she could reproduce on the big day. There was no winner in our makeup marathon, but Ehrenspeck came away with great products and advice for future fix-my-face forays.

» Lancome
Products used: 15-20
Price range: $23.50-$68
Brand Loyalty: Flexible. Our artist recommended home remedies (oatmeal instead of exfoliant!) as well as products from other labels.
Pros: The cosmetics gal set aside all of the products she had used for us to pore over plus a list. A colored-in paper face showed exactly where shades were applied.
Cons: The consultant was a tad contradictory — a few moments after recommending all matte products, she applied quite a bit of glitter. And our tester's features didn't pop in photos they way they did with other lines.
Best Products: Color Ideal Foundation ($37.50), Primordiale skin care line ($48-$68).

» MAC
Products used: 15
Price range: $14-$35
Brand Loyalty: Promoted the brand but didnt push.
Pros: Our makeup artist herself had on a flawless face and a personality that immediately set our tester at ease. The look was polished and simple but photographed well; our bride-to-be felt confident she could reproduce the effect on her own.
Cons: We were a little disappointed that the artist didn't give a very detailed application play-by-play, but that could have been due to this look's simplicity. Great eye make-up was slightly marred by messy mascara.
best products: Fluidline Eyeliner ($15); Eye Shadow in "Brule" and "Charcoal Brown" ($14).

» Sephora
Products: 20ish
Price range: $18-$75
Brand Loyalty: Promiscuous, as you would expect with so many lines to choose from.
Pros: For this enjoyable, energetic redo, the artist genuinely seemed interested in giving our tester what she wanted and was very honest and flexible. The makeup photographed well, and the pro gave our bride-to-be her contact information for follow-ups.
Cons: In person, the makeup was not convincingly natural (Barbie doll-esque would be a good descriptor). The application was also the longest and most complicated.
Best Products: Stila Eye Shadow ($18), Lorac Blush/Bronzer ($24).

» Trish McEvoy
Products: Around 30
Price range: $16-$125
Brand Loyalty: From face wash to foundation, our artist was diehard Team Trish.
Pros: Eager to get our tester in a chair, this brand cheerleader asked many questions about the wedding (time of day, bridesmaids' dress color) and then chose interesting colors like mint shadow and navy eyeliner.
Cons: Toward the end of the session, our tester felt a heavy pressure to buy. She was glad she didn't when after an hour of wear, the foundation felt oily, and there were cracks in the concealer.
Best Products: Base Essentials Waterproof Shadow Base ($24), Luxe Moisture Balm ($28).

Lessons Learned
We braved the bristly brushes and bright lights of many chairs to get the following know-before-you-go tips on mall makeovers.

» Make an appointment. Contrary to our assumptions, counter ambush in the middle of a weekday does not guarantee good service. At a few places, we were asked to make appointments and come back later — so, call ahead. Sessions are generally free and last about an hour.

» Don't judge a makeup artist by her appearance. We encountered quite a few artists who seemed to have trouble using appropriate products on themselves. While they may have had obvious female facial hair or layers of vivid aqua eye shadow, all were fairly competent at choosing and applying products for our tester.

» Try before you buy, but you should also eat, smile and take photos. Some issues, like oily foundation and vanishing lipstick, weren't apparent until an hour or two after application. And while the products might look great under suspicious department store lighting, that doesn't ensure they'll make your features glow in photos.

Written by Erin Clements Rushing
Photos by Erin Clements Rushing